Peter's First Trip Abroad

After his first year of uni, Peter decided to go to Europe. His brother Chris decided he'd go too. The following is taken from his travel journal, from postcards he wrote, and from recollections he and others have shared:

Peter and Chris at Stonehenge. He was always underwhelmed by it. In 2010, while driving through the UK, we realised we were a 10 minute detour away from it. I said we should go. As we drove past, I realised why Peter was always so underwhelmed by it.

Peter's travel Diary

Note: In transcribing Peter's diary and postcards I attempted to keep his spelling and grammar as it originally appeared.

Going: 6th August 1986

Philipinne Airlines Melb to Manila Egypt Air Manila to Cairo 6/8/86 Philippines Airport After leaving from Melbourne via Sydney our plane landed in Manila. After getting off the plane we were directed out of the transit lounge and through the airport to the outside. From here we had to try to get back to our transit lounge, trying not to pay the 200p ($17) departure tax. Eventually an airport official took us to where we were supposed to be, after which he went to get us a drink each and forgot about the change. We then flew to Bangkok on our way to Cairo. Both Bangkok and Manila Airports body searched us. 7/8 Cairo 5 AM After a flight of 27 hours, on and off, we arrived at the Cairo Airport. Here we answered everyone's questions on "How long will you be in Cairo?" We then exchanged 100 pound stirling, declared how much money we had, picked up our backpacks and prepared for the customs search. They had given an American a hard time, he was just in front of us. The customs officer looked at his watch, looked at our passports, smiled when he saw we were Aussies and let us through. An airport information officer then told one of his men to drive us to the Indiana Hotel. Having got there, the man wanted some 'petrol money.' He took 20 pound, we didn't realise this until later. 6:30 AM Having arrived at the hotel we checked in, unpacked, then decided we'd go see if we could find a map of Cairo and its places of interest. On the way to the elevator we met a hotel worker, then his brother and then his sister. The man showed us to the breakfast area where we had a "continental breakfast" - 2 stale buns, a greasy croissant, and I had 2 cups of tea. We sat at a table of Arab/Turks/Spanish/we're not sure what nationality - as they didn't talk much. 8:30 AM We then went to the Egyptian Museum. We walked the mile or so. On the way we met the "owner of an aftershave factor" selling his product. All we could make out was "leaves dry skin smooth." We then met many people trying to buy US $ for Egyptian pounds. The normal rate was $1 for 1.25 pounds, but we had offers of up to $1 for 1.80 pounds. We were the asked in many different languages if we had seen the pyramids. One man, on learning we were going to the museum, told us that it was closed Thursdays, and that if we went to see the Sphinx today he would halve his usual offer of 40 pounds and take us there for 20 pounds, 10 pounds each. We finally arrived at the museum but were unable to take photos unless we paid 10 pound. We also couldn't use the flash. So without camera we saw all of the relics from thousands of years ago. Although they were very interesting after seeing several hundred they all looked very much alike. After leaving the museum we were mobbed by taxi drivers all offering rides. Many even followed us in their cars, driving backwards down a one way street, until a major pile up nearly occurred. The price for the pyramids and the bazaar was now 5 pounds. We stopped for a couple of drinks at 0.25 pounds a bottle of lemonade (small.) We decided we'd go shopping for some food but I think the locals saw us coming, a jar of Tang cost 4 pounds, the Egyptian Yoplait cost 0.30 pounds each. We then arrived back at our hotel room to find the air conditioner didn't work, the television didn't start until the evening and it was still hot (35-40 degrees C.) After a few showers we decided we'd go to book our seats to Luxor; we were already tiring of Cairo. We decided we'd catch a bus to Ramses Station (3-4 km). But the buses had their numbers in Arabic. We asked a few people (most people can speak some English) and found out to look for a bus xx9, x9x, or 9xx. Having found one it decided not to stop, but determined, I ran it down (quite a good effort), only to find Chris was still at the bus stop. I got off at the next stop (the bus slowed down slightly) and walked back to the last stop. Eventually we caught a bus, with about twice as many on as any I had ever seen in Australia. The money collector kept talking about us in Arabic and so when he told us to get off, and it was in the middle of nowhere, we were a little put out! It turned out the station was about 1 km from our stop. We asked an Egyptian woman how to get there but she knew no English. A German couple were there and so as a token effort we asked them. They spoke very good English, comparatively, and took us to the train depot, then bus depot, to find we had to book 6 days in advance for the train and 1/2 hour before the bus leaves (5 AM.) As we had 3 days accommodation we decided to leave this until Sunday. The German couple were heading to Luxor this night so maybe we'll see them again. It was getting dark so we wanted to get back to our hotel room.For a while we decided to look again at our map. Seeing this some Egyptians came to our rescue. One of them took us all the way to the city and even paid for our tickets, he seemed strange, yet he was helpful. We walked back to our hotel much to the delight of most of the natives. They seem to love to see white people and to say hello or honk their horn. For the first time we know what it's like to be in the minority. Back at the hotel we watched "Knight Rider" with Arabic subtitles then fell asleep only to be awoken by a phone call from a man we met at Ramses Station. He was ringing to ask about our decision on his tour to the pyramids + Sakkara 7 hours for just 5 pound. It seemed alright but we'll see after the tour has ended. We had only the breakfast and yogurt for the day. We also had many litres of water. Chris is a bit concerned about the friendliness of the natives.

Mum and Dad,

As you probably realise we are in Egypt, our plane went via Sydney, Manila, Bangkok and then Cairo. It took about 30 hours + 2 body searches. it is very hot here. It's good to know the Australia name still means something. At Customs in Cairo, on learning of our nationality, we were let through without our bags being checked. We've only been here 8 hours and already we've seen the Egyptian Museum and we've got sunburned faces. Everyone wants to take us to see the pyramids, the price has gone down from 40 pounds to 5 pounds. The competition is so fierce about taxi drivers raced toward us when we came out of our hotel nearly causing an accident on the road. you're right Dad the place is full of foreigners! Peter and Chris

8/8 Cairo Sakkarra Giza We went to the ruins at Sakkara in a car with four Italians from Milano, the driver, and Ashraf (our railway friend.) We first went past the old Egyptian capital where we saw poverty at its greatest, people in tattered clothes, undernourished donkeys, and bumpy roads. From here we went to the step pyramids. Numerous tombs and many tourists. We then went on a camel ride. Chris went fast, Peter went slow, Chris paid 1 pound extra. Afterward the camel owner wanted 4 pounds, Chris wanted to pay 3 pounds, Chris won. We then discussed Aussie movies, Mad Max 1, 2, 3, Galipoli, Olivia Newton John, and Italian actors, Robert Deniro, Dean Martin, Wallgator. We went to the tombs of the "Happy Cows." At the pyramids we saw traditional Arab camel riders (the same ones as on the post cards) who wanted their pictures taken for baksheesh. We then climbed into the pyramid, through confined passages (1mx1m) at about 45 degrees. As there were so many people climbing up, the heat inside was unbearable; there wasn't a dry shirt in the tomb. For this we paid 3 pounds (1.50 pounds each.) We then went to the Sphinx, another let down. We went to an Egyptian restaurant before going back to our hotel. 9/9 Cairo to Luxor We awoke at 4 AM as we had to be at the bus depot at 5 AM to buy tickets for the 5:30 bus. Outside the hotel was a porter who got a taxi for us. The taxi driver wanted 3 pounds, the right price during the day was 1.5 pounds, we offered 2 pounds, we paid 2.5 pounds and tipped the porter 0.5 pounds, what barterers we are becoming. When we arrived at the depot it was 5 AM on a Saturday morning and there was no one at the ticket office; no one except about 100 Egyptians all waiting impatiently for tickets to the Luxor bus. At about 5:30 AM the ticket seller arrived. Being tourists "we didn't know we had to go to the window for tickets" so I followed the sellers through the side door. After knocking back about 10 offers for cigarettes, I was sold two tickets. The seller asked for what sounded like 30 pounds. Having by now learned to pay half what asked for I gave him 15 pounds. He gave me 2 pounds change. We were then shown to the bus. "Oh my God!!" As we were first shown to the front door. But even the conductor couldn't penetrate the mass of human bodies wedged between the front seat and the windscreen. (The driver was the one with his face pushed against the glass; we found out later he was in fact saying, "No more, we full up" and not "I am not an animal, I am an Egyptian bus driver." Just joking.) The backdoor however had real possibilities, there were only five Egyptians between the two backseats and the doorway. The conductor removed two people from their seats and motioned for us to take their places. Even with these spaces cleared we still had to climb over the people int he doorway to get to "our" seats. Having got to our seats we asked if the conductor could put our backpacks, sleeping bags, tent and bedroll in the luggage compartment. We were stunned when he replied there was no compartment, and threw them in after us. Perhaps it was bad luck, perhaps fate, that the man who had been removed from Chris's seat, and had had the backpack land on him, whist making himself comfortable on the floor, accidently broke one of the straps off the backpack. We had no sooner sat down when the back door again opened and yet another passenger climbed over, much to the disgust of yet another ex-seat owner. The conductor then checked the tickets; all those sitting on the floor paid the conductor 6.5 pounds, perhaps for better service next time (they hadn't paid for their seats and didn't get one.) The bus remained stationery for about fifteen minutes, during which time the humidity, heat, and constant stares had made us perspire slightly moderately a great deal sweat like pigs. Whilst boarding I had noticed an air conditioning unit on the roof of the bus, and wondered why it was not yet on. I looked at my watch and noticed it was only 5:45 AM, perhaps they were waiting until 6 AM. Once we started moving, the breeze cooled us slightly. Having become bored, it was now 6:15 and the air conditioner was not on, I reached for the Arabic phrase, looking under the chapter on transportation, I asked the man next to me "How long is the journey?" and he replied 5 hours. Although this seemed like a long time, remembering the plane journey, it seemed bearable. Chris didn't think he could hack this epic journey as he couldn't move his feet due to 2 of the 5 people on the floor being asleep on them. After a few hours a man in front of us asked if the three people up front, who were also white, were our brothers. He was astonished when we answered no. Apparently we all look alike. As I looked upu toward the front of the bus Chris remarked that he thought he could see Joan Wilder up at the front. He then asked someone if this bus was in fact going to Carthihaiynia, they just continued to stare. After being on the bus about 4 1/2 hours I aksed if we were near Luxor. He replied, "Luxor, 5 hours more." Chris almost fainted. We stopped (just before which Chris had noticed the man asleep at his feet had shrunk 6 inches. Chris looked down to see his backpack was the only thing between the man and the road below. The false floor (2 foot x 2 foot) had given way. With a flick of his wrist, Chris woke up the startled Egyptian and grasped the backpack as it started to disappear. After a few minutes the ingeneous Egyptians, it was obvious were not related to the pyramid makers of years gone by, had replaced the shredded wooden trapdoor with a flattened cardboard box. The backpack was then put back on top of the covered hole. Everyone looked at us for approval, and when Chris didn't cry they all thought they had done well. It was then that we hid our sleeping bags behind our seats. Our only source of comfort from heat was in the form of an Egyptian maglamaniac whose sole source of entertainment was watching all those behind him sweat as he shut his window. Every time he fell asleep I would open the window, each time he awoke he would shut it. Without exaggeration I would have opened it 20 times, he shut it 21 times. During the last hour (the eleventh) as the bus emptied, and the feeling came back into our legs, people started becoming friendlier. One man (who looked very much like a dark-skinned Clark Gable, and whom everybody had continuously offered cigarettes, drinks, and even money to) started to fight one of his friends (mock fight) while I gave advice on various grips, punches and eye gouging techniques. They carried these out explicitly. As we neared our stop many people came to the back and shook our hands. The bus pulled into Luxor and we were greeted by a "friend of the tourist" who took us to a hotel which cost 3 pounds each person per night. The other Caucasions from the bus were also whisked away to the "Sphinx Hotel" (why it's in Luxor we're not sure.) Our room has a private bathroom, 2 beds and fan, quite a bargain. It seems no matter where we go, people in Egypt know 4 phrases: "Hello," "Welcome to Egypt," "Do you want to exchange money," or "Baksheesh" (I want your small change.) We've been offered car to local sight for 20 pound total, 1-5 people. We had 1 pkt chips, 5 pt for the day on food. 10/8 Luxor We awoke early and arrived at the Luxor Temple before the onslaught of "tourists." A guide kept trying to be helpful (something I'm sure the Egyptian dictionary defines as "annoying tourists to the extent they pay you to leave them alone,") showing us all of the interesting angles to take photos from. This would have been alright except he expected to be paid for it. After we had given the guide 0.75 pounds he left us to look around for ourselves. Amongst the ruins were people sleeping; they looked as though they had fallen asleep as soon as their heads hit their pillars. After we left Luxor Temple we decided to find out about the bus to Hurghada. We went to the railway station, where we were told to go to Horus Hotel, where we were told to go across the street to the bus depot, where we were told to come back just before 12 PM on the day the bus left. In the afternoon Chris decided it was time to eat (apart from the occasional breakfast we hadn't eaten since arriving in Egypt, maybe this had something to do with the combination of flies, stench and oil slick synonomous with Egyptian food) so we went out looking for the few places mentioned in our guide book. One we couldn't find, the other had doubled its prices in he last 12 months. It was then the Dutch guys (we met them on the bus) asked us if we knew the way back to the hotel. Chris gave up any ideas of eating and led the way. After 20 minutes he decided we had seen enough of the scenery and admitted we were lost. All of a sudden about 20 kids ran at us from around the corner. They were led by a 5 year old on a donkey. We soon realised they were saying Baksheesh. They followed us for a few blocks then decided to hunt other prey. We gradually found the hotel and then Chris and I kept walking, we arranged to meet a taxi driver at 5 PM to tell him whether or not we wanted to go to "The Valley of the Kings" for 15 pounds. We declined. The other driver's offers ranged up to 40 pounds. A little earlier we had been offered sailing trips on the Nile in fellucas for 5 to 15 pounds, these we also declined; the ferry across the Nile cost only 0.25 pounds each. We walked to the Luxor Museum, the smallest museum I have ever seen. It had only about 100 exhibits. Admittedly most were perfect. We walked back to the hotel and decided to eat here. We had macaroni and tomatoes. While we were eating this, the guy who brought us to the hotel met us to find out whether we were going on his tour to King Valley (20 pounds.) We told it was too expensive. He then wanted to know when we wanted to change our US $ to Egyptian pounds. We insisted we hadn't told him we would. Although he was persistent we didn't change any. Not only don't we need the pounds, we also don't want the hassles from the airport custom officers, nor his 1.50 pound to $1. Usual offer 1.80 to 2.10 pounds for $1. The Hollanders then came along and he conned them into changing $50 into 75 pounds. They were doing it as a favour to him as "he was going to Holland to live and needed the money to get there." At first they were going to change $90 but when they heard his exchange rate they changed their minds. Soon after this he told us he owns 2 houses (1 Cairo, 1 Luxor) and earns 12 pounds an hour. Just before this we (mostly Hollanders) helped him write a love letter to his English speaking girlfriend. He told us to write how well liked and respected he is! We then went for a farewell drink with the Dutch at a bar, they were going to Aswan to watch some feathered birds.

11/8

Luxor

We took a ferry across the Nile where we were greeted by a hoard of taxi drivers. we reduced the price from 15 pounds to 10 pounds for the trip to and from the Valley of the Kings. We had gone about 2 km when, all of a sudden, the taxi driver stopped the taxi. We looked out the window to see two very attractive girls were standing there looking exhausted. The driver asked if we minded if the girls got in, we didn't. The girls started toward the taxi and the driver asked them for 5 pounds. We replied it was not necessary as we were already going there, they could just come along for the ride. The driver again asked for 5 pounds. They replied that they didn't have it. It then became obvious the money was for the driver not a share of the ten pounds. Before he could drive off I opened the door and insisted, to the driver mainly, thatthey get in. the driver mumbled that they would have to find another way back from the Valley of the Kings and drove off. It turned out they were French students who had hired bike sand found it too hot.

We looked at a couple of tombs before one of the girls got a migraine. We took her to the canteen building where she collapsed on the floor. An Egyptian man came running over saying "You can't sleep there!" and, after some explaining, he showed her to a type of sick bay where she slept. We continued through the tombs, seeing an actual embalmed mummy, the golden statue of Tutenkhamen and many stairs. After about 10 tombs we again checked on the girl, this time her friend stayed with her. Chris and I looked at one more tomb and then decided to leave.

In one of the earlier tombs two Australians (one called Johnno) with torches decided to do some exploring in the closed sections. A guard, having spotted us talking to them, ran down 3 flights of stairs yelling, "Get out!"

As we were walking toward the taxi, our driver came toward us telling the girls they would have to walk or take a different taxi. With this a nearby driver came over offering his taxi. It was then the argument started. We said we had paid for the taxi, not for 2 fares to the Valley. The driver disagreed. After the driver had picked us up on the Nile, he had stopped to pick up his nephew, who had come along for the ride. I said if he could bring along his friends, why couldn't we? This seemed to stump him. He suggested a few extra pounds for the driver. I asked who the first 10 pounds was going to? Being on a roll, I then suggested we pay him 5 pounds for the ride there (and his 4 hour wait) and find another taxi to drive us all back. With this he opened the door and we all piled in.

Our next challenge was to get him to drop the girls off where they had left their bikes. the driver had other ideas. He took us to the ferry another way. We told him we wanted to go back the same way. Surprisingly he did, after a stop at a place where "they make antiques." We told them we weren't interested. they said it was free. We repeated our answer. They asked if we wanted a free cup of tea while we looked around. We said we had just had a drink. They then came up with the phrase many always use when they have lost an argument, "It's up to you!" said in a tone which makes you wonder whether your last decision was a wise one. Up to now most have been.

In the afternoon we went up to the Karnak Temple. After walking from our hotel for 5 minutes, a man with a horse and buggy asked if we wanted a ride. We asked how much and he replied 3 pounds each. We kept walking. he then started following us. Eventually the price went down to 1 pound for both, not bad for a 3 km ride, so we climbed on. After we had gone about 2 km the driver changed his price to 1 pound each, then 1.5 pounds for both if we took his buggy on the way back. We said 1 pound one way and we wouldn't take his cart back. He then shut up. When we got to the temple I gave him 1 pound. He wanted to know where the other 0.5 pounds was. I said we had agreed on 1 pound and that was what he had been given. He then started shouting, 1 1/2 pounds. (A large group of tourists was nearby, he was, I think, trying to embarrass us.) I answered his shouts with 1 pound. He then threatened to call the police. I asked if he would rather I did it. He took the 1 pound. Outside of the temple, the group laughed as we walked past.

The temple itself was enormous, but the last 4 days were beginning to take a toll. Each statue, each column, each ruin was beginning to look the same. We walked back as an offer of 1 pound also became 1 pound 50 when returning.

12/8

Luxur

Before catching the bus at 12 PM we had to pay our bill at the Sphinx Hotel. The agreed price of 3 pounds each including breakfast was now 4 pounds each and 1.10 pounds for breakfast. As always we queried the amount and finished up paying 3 pounds a night plus 1.10 pounds a meal.

We walked to the bus stop where we met a Dutch couple, the first people we've met who weren't going to Aswan.

At around 12 PM three busses pulled into the depot, one at a time. We were told each time the bus was going to Aswan. After about 10 minutes another bus came. As one of the Dutch people had had an argument over the price of a drink, we were told it was going to Aswan. We got on the bus anyway. After about 2 hours, when we were in the middle of the Arabian desert, we knew it had been a wise decision. After about 6 hours we arrived in Hurghada. A desolate village surrounded by desert to the north, west, and south. Rocky shallow beach to the east.

At first we went to the Hurghada Happy house but it had been torn down to the foundation. We were then taken to a "tourist flat." The only room available being in a 4 bedded room to be shared with 2 Australians. They turned out to be Austrian med students. The price of 3 pounds each. We didn't want to take it, but it was this or the Sheraton. At night we went out with the Austrians as they were going to leave in the morning. They told us where to eat, drink, etc.

We were asked by Muhammed (the owner's son) if we wanted to go snorkeling for 10 pounds, which included boat trip from 9 to 5 (3 stops) and lunch; 1 pound for equipment. We decided to leave it 1 day.

13/8

Hurghada

At 7:30 we had breakfast (eggs, pita bread, tea.) Probably the best meal this far (1.5 pounds.) We then decided to explore the "beach." We walked along for 3 km and still there was no sand or surf. The sun already was burning us. The Red Sea here is more like a very salty lake. It is about knee deep until about 200 m. We decided to wade out this far and swam for 2 hrs. We were becoming very burnt so we went back to the hovel. We are going snorkeling tomorrow. Muhammed, seeing we were burnt, offered us half a bottle of French suntan lotion (probably left behind by past tenants.) He wanted 4 pounds. We needed it badly so we paid 2 pounds.

Two French guys have moved into "our" room. They have been travelling 2 months. This is one of their last stops. They are going back to France overland via Jordan, Greece, Yugoslavia, etc.

Our sunburn is getting worse; we stayed inside all afternoon, hoping it would go.

We met yet more med students, this time a Pommie couple. they had been in "The Sphinx" in Luxor when we were there. We decided to go to Alexandria on Saturday (16th) via Cairo (15th) until Tuesday (19th.)

14/8

Before going on a trip to the islands we booked seats on a bus to Cairo for tomorrow at 4 PM for 8 pounds each. Our French roommates are also going on this bus.

At 9:15 we (7) were picked up outside the hovel in a minibus. We were then driven to another hotel where we picked up 4 others. We arrived at the "docks" at 9:30 and were shown to our "luxury yacht." At 9:45 all of the other boats had left; ours left at 10:45.

After about 1 hour we stopped at a reef to do some snorkeling. We had only rented one set, so Chris went first. While Chris was swimming, 2 boats started to clean and gut their couple-of-day-old fish and throwing the waste into the water. No amount of reassurance could convince me that this wouldn't attract sharks, so I didn't dive there. We then stopped for lunch on the beach (fish, rice, tomato, cucumber and Coke.)

After lunch we went to another reef where I did dive. We then went back to Hurghada. At the dock I met 2 Aussies from near Albury. They had been away for 2 months and were delighted to hear about Hawke's decline in popularity and the Saints winning another game of footy. In the evening I spoke to a W. German (Herge) about life in general in Egypt. He talked us into going to Ismaliya.

15/8

Hurghada to Cairo

At 3 Am we woke as we had to catch a bus at 4 AM. A new tenant (a Japanese from America) had lent me his alarm clock. A Yugoslavian had asked us to wake him as we left, but we forgot and so when we're in Yugoslavia we will have to try NOT to see him. (He's a heavy sleeper and had to catch a bus at 6 AM.) We caught it and had travelled for about 4 hours when one of our French ex-roomates (sitting across the aisle from us) had an epilectic fit. His French friend (who couldn't speak English) threw the first aid kit to us while we tried to hold him still. Not knowing what he wanted us to do we just opened the kit up. A giant tongue depressor was near the top layer of the kit. His French friend fumbling through grabbed it at once. In the meantime a man behind had grabbed the epilectic at his temples (a vise-like grip.) Chris got up and forced his mouth open while his friend shoved the depressor between his teeth. Blood started to flow from his mouth. While all this was happening the impossible occurred; the bus driver slowed the bus down and came to see if he could be of assistance (or to make sure no blood was going on the seats, we're not sure which.) Just as well we were in the middle of the Arabian desert, the bus was still going, although comparatively slowly, more or less along the road while the driver was watching. Someone with a good grasp of English (Egyptian looking except for the shorts) then pushed his ay through and started asking questions, such as, has he been drinking (answer: oui, lots of water) and, have you any valium (the incident it seemed had upset his nerves.) He then looked at his watch and held hands with the epilectic. Talk about taking advantage of the situation! (This same Frenchman had pushed an Arab for doing the same thing a couple of weeks earlier.) We then realised this man must be the only competent English speaking doctor in Egypt.

The epileptic woke after about another hour, but seemed very groggy for the rest of the trip. The blood came from a small cut on the top of his lip.

We arrived in Cairo around 12 PM and found a hotel near the bus station (Ramses Sq.) for 3 pounds. We then went to the airport to see if we could change our departure date to the 18/8 (72 hours notice.) When we found out we could leave tomorrow we jumped at it. The only trouble is that we have 70 pounds too much and they are worthless outside of the country. After getting back to our hotel we tried to swap them with other tourists for US $ but no-one was interested. We met an Egyptian man in the elevator and asked him, and he said he would come to our room between 7 and 7:30 PM to exchange. He didn't know what the rate was though, so we suspected he may have been with the authorities. We then decided to meet him in a public place (the lobby) before he had a chance to get to our room to tell him we no longer wanted to exchange. We waited from 6:50 to 7:45 pm but he didn't turn up, so we went to the hotel (Everest) balcony and ordered 2 drinks. After about 20 minutes the drinks came. We then ordered 2 more. When these hadn't arrived 30 minutes later, we decided they had forgotten us and so paid for the 2 drinks and went to bed.

at about 9;30 PM there was a knock on the door. we decided on the story we would tell our friend from the lift and then opened the door instead to find the waiter. He wanted 2 pounds for our 4 drinks. We told him we had had only 2 drinks and that we'd already paid for these. Chris went to explain to the manager and came back 5 minutes later - "no problems."

16/8

Cairo

We woke at 4:30 and were outside our hotel looking for a taxi at 5 AM. One taxi eventually was stopped but wanted 10 pounds to go to the airport. We then decided to take a bus, so we walked to Ramses Station. It was too early for buses. Chris got us a ride with a non-English speaking taxi driver at 5 pounds. He drove around the block a few times before finding a translator. When he found out we wanted to go to the airport he wanted 10 pounds, then 7, but finally agreed to 5. We had to pay an extra 1 pound for him to park in the airport.

Once at the airport Chris went looking for duty free shops to spend 70 pounds. there was only a small one with a limited range. He bought 3 metal Egyptian plates, 15 pounds each small, 20 pounds large. He also bought a papyrus picture 12 pounds. We then went through to the departure lounge where we worked out we still had 31 pounds. As we needed 10.50 pounds each for departure tax, that left 10 pounds. The range of products available for 10 pounds being small, I bought another papyrus picture 10 pounds.

After boarding the plane, we discovered that no departure tax had to be paid so we still have 21 pounds of worthless money (AUS $26.)

After a 5 hour flight we landed in London. They questioned us about the length of our stay and our finances. Again we walked straight through Customs. We caught a bus to Victoria Station, then a train to Norwood Junction. When we arrived at "Basement Flat 1" there was no answer. This was at 3:30 PM. At 5:30 we bought some chips and flavoured milk. The woman living upstairs from Steven and Angela hasn't seen either of them for 3 days sooner suspect Steven won't be here tonight. If he doesn't come we will leave for Liverpool in the morning. He has an open cavity under a stairwell where we may have to sleep tonight (pubs are 10 pounds each.) From Liverpool we can go to Scotland, Wales and Ireland.

We went to sleep at 9 PM and were awakened at 10:30 PM when someone tripped over my feet. I looked up to see a man fumbling with our clothes. Suspecting it was a burglar or wino I said, "Are ya right?" The man jumped back about 6 feet, pulling a pile of drawers down as he did so. The intruder very nervously said, "Who's there?" Realising this was our host, Steven, I replied, "Peter and Chris . . . You're Steven are you?" It was now Steve started to breathe again. He thought we were drug addicts; he keeps his key in some jeans under the stairs. We talked for a few hours before going to bed (inside.) He had been to Egypt in winter and had really enjoyed it.

Before she had left, Angie had written us a letter telling us what to do (and not do) in Egypt, how to get to their place in London, etc. But it must have arrived after we left.

17/8

London (South Norwood)

We spent the day inside planning the next day in London, watching English TV (boring,) writing post cards (Egyptian) to Mum, Deb, Rachel, Andrew Moreton, Natalie. At lunchtime Steve took us for a ride in his bread van. Steve was going to go to work in the morning but didn't leave till about 3:30-4:00 PM. Although Angela has only been gone a week Steve was very lonely and so has been working late. He seems to enjoy having someone around to talk to so we seem to be welcome here.

Dear Mum and Dad and Jem and Mal,

We left Egypt on 16/8. We are writing to Deb about Egypt so we'll tell you about a bus we had from Cairo, along the Nile, to Luxor (where "the Valley of the Kings" is.) We had tried to buy train tickets but these had to be bought 6 days in advance. So we went by bus. At 5 AM we confronted a very crowded bus. Even the conductor couldn't squash his way through the front door so we went to the back. Here he removed 2 people from their seats. We then climbed over several people sitting on the floor to "our" seats. Having no luggage compartment our backpacks were thrown on after us. they were then passed forward up and down the aisle where people sat on them. Having all our valuables with us we watched as our sleeping bags were also removed and also sat on. Everyone now comfortable the bus left Cairo on its 13 hour journey. Although it was only early at 6 AM it felt 150 degrees F in the bus without air conditioning and with people laying on the floor using your legs as backrests, it was a very uncomfortable ride. Chris kept seeing similarities with the bus going to Carthihaynia in "Romance of the Stone." Bye, Peter and Chris.

Dear Deb,

We are writing this from England as the postal service in Egypt is rumoured to be hopeless and you wouldn't have got it from Egypt. We were in Egypt 10 days. We left 3 days earlier than planned. it is a dirty, dirty place. We saw the Sphinx, pyramids, temples, Valley of the Kings, Tutenkhamon's golden mask and mummy cask, museums, red sea, various con artists, beggars, poofs (90% of the population), taxi drivers, starving animals, filthy streets, awful food (we had 4 meals while in Egypt + 100s of drinks). It was around 100 degrees each day we were there. We left Egypt very suddenly and had 80 pounds (AUS $100) left. At first we were going to exchange it for US dollars illegally but we had only hours to do this. We arranged a meeting with an Egyptian we met in an elevator, but he was very suspicious, so we didn't go through with it. Don't worry, we spent the money on souvenirs but you'll have to wait for them as it's very expensive to send them. We're at Steven's (London). England is the opposite of Egypt (clean, friendly) so we are enjoying it so far. Tell Mum we're still alive. Bye.

18/8

London

We went to Buckingham Palace to see the Changing of the Guard, it was very crowded. On the way there we were conned into some photos for 18 pounds. They will probably be sent to Kerang within the month. We then walked to Westminster Abbey and Big ben. The Abbey is enormous inside; it has many famous "Poms" inside from kings to authors to poets. We walked along the Thames to Trafalgar Square then Piccadilly Circus which was disappointing as there were no clowns to be seen, only famous theatres. From here we walked to Waterloo Rd, in search of touring vans but we couldn't find the place. Perhaps we will find it tomorrow. We then went back to Steve's, bought some groceries for lasagna.

We received a letter from Mum and Dad.

19/8

London

We went into London to see the London Gaol and the Tower of London where the crown jewels are held. Both have an admission of 4 pounds ($10) so we decided we'd wait till winter so it's not so crowded.

We then walked to "Euro-car" lot near "Waterloo Station." There were about 6 vans in our price range (under 1000 pounds), we are particularly interested in a Fiat car/van, it is 999 pounds, 1979 model, 4-5 berth (3), cassette, 100 pound new brakes, 37 mpg. It has only been around Europe once. We will have another look at it tomorrow.

20/8

London

We again went to the city to the van street. There were many different vans from yesterday. there was a 1971 Commer van for 780 pounds. After 2-3 hours we decided to buy it.

We then went to Lloyd's Bank, near Waterloo Bridge, to withdraw some cash from our Mastercards. After 30-45 minutes we were told there was some problem (Westpac) so they couldn't give us the cash. I then tried with my Commonwealth M.C. I withdrew 300 pounds without any problems. So we went back to Steve's and did some washing. We will pay for, and collect, the van tomorro.

21/8, 22/8, 23/8

London to Bath

We drove the van around a little and stocked it up with some canned food. We looked for third party insurance and a Greencard but they want at least 400 pounds as I'm only 19. We went to Bath late Friday night (22/8) and camped at A1 Picnic Ground. (Steve came with us.)

On the Saturday we saw the Roman Baths. We camped near a park and while we were cooking dinner, a chef and a waitress came over to the van and asked us if we could cook 35 portions of chips. When we queried it they said they'd had more customers than expected. Stunned, we agreed, they then laughed and ran back to tell their friends about their joke. We had dinner and then I went in search for a chip shop. I was going to give them 1 portion and say the other 34 were on the way. I got lost looking and started talking to a man from Northern Ireland. Two hours later I was back at the van.

We went to a couple of pubs that night. It rained all night.

24/8 - 25/8

Salisbury

At around 2:30 we left for Stonehenge. it was all roped off and we had to pay 1.30 pounds to get within 30 metres. We then went to Salisbury where after a few hours of looking for somewhere to park we went to a car park.

On Monday 25/8 we left Salisbury for London. We arrived in London at 6 PM. I wrote some postcard to Sarah, Ian and Mum.

26/8, 27/8, 28/8

London

We went shopping in Croyden for insurance and clothes. Chris bought a leather jacket for 7 pounds. I looked in several insurance brokers but most wouldn't insure us because I'm under 21 and under 25.

On 27/8 we went to the broker across the road. Insurance until 29 March 1987. It cost us 450 pounds with Greencard.

On 28/8 the Greencard was ready and a receipt for the first month's insurance. We went to a mechanic who said the problem in the gear change was probably only an adjustment problem.

29/8 to 30/8

I took the van to the mechanic at 9 AM and picked it up at 12 PM. He had fixed the clutch (drum was on the wrong side,) tightened the linkage (which really needs replacing,) as well as adjusting the gears so 1st and 2nd are accessible. We then took the covers off the van seats and washed them. I filled the gas bottle.

We started getting ready to leave Steve's on the 30/8 (Saturday.) In the evening we went to see a film called Highlander - lots of potential, not enough done with it. (2.20 pounds.) I posted 3 postcards, 1 to Deb, Valerie and Andrew Fraser.

31/8

London - Portsmouth

In the morning we packed the van and got ready to go. We left around 2 PM and arrived in Portsmouth at 4:30 PM. We went straight to the docks, found out the ferry left at 8:30 AM, then we made lunch (salmon sangas.) At 6:30 PM we changed some traveler's cheques at the dock's Bureau de Change. We needed it for the 60 pound ferry crossing. We then drove to a park where we stopped for a while. We sewed some of the covers on the seats, then phoned Mum. I think she misses us already. She put my tax refund in Commonwealth. Also mentioned "Drake" as possible employment.

Mum, Dad, Jem and Mal, We are still in England but we have a few Egyptian postcards left so I'm writing on one of them. We went to Bath (Roman baths) and Stonehenge on 22nd, 23rd and 24th to test out the van (1971 Chrysler Commer 8 berth.) It goes quite well. We will probably leave England before 31/8, we have to get third party insurance for the van, we are trying to get it cheaper than 400 pounds, the cheapest so far. We had some trouble when we tried to get some money from our Westpac Mastercards. They wouldn't give us any money, so can you look into that for us, Mum? When our tax comes back can you put it into our Westpac accounts if we can use them! I have used 300 pounds from Commonwealth Mastercard can you put money to cover that from Westpac? Peter 1/9 to 2/9 Portsmouth - La Havre (France) - Paris We woke at 5 AM to be at the port for 8:30 AM. At 6 AM we arrived at the doc. After lining up for an hour and a half, we drove up on the ship. We were the second vehicle on, so we were right at the front. By 8 o' clock we were bored with the boat so I had a few games on an electronic game (Hyperolypics.) This drew quite a crowd, and didn't the kids love it. Although I only got 146th the kids thought I was pretty good! We then went to the video lounge to watch movies for the remainder of the 5 3/4 hours, hoping it wasn't "Out of Africa." We waited. The first film was a second-rate Bud Spenger movie, it ran until 10:30 AM. At least the next one would be better we thought. There was no next one. The rest of the 3 3/4 hours we slept, sat, and stared at the water. We arrived at Le Havre at 3 PM French time. We drove through Customs (passports, destination, nothing to declare.) We were fast through, then made our way to Paris via Rouen. Our petrol only got us to Rouen. We hadn't changed any money into French francs, the banks were shut, and the petrol stations showing Mastercard signs wouldn't accept Mastercard! As the dishes were piling up we decided to go looking for water. This is proving to be a hassle as few houses have garden taps, nor do service stations. We were also getting desperate for a toilet so we looked for one of these also. I hard heard the French had trouble with constipation but ew still thought they would have to go sooner or later. We could find no W.C. anywhere except a pub. We went there only to be found we were chased by the publican who wanted money. As we had none, he got none. We also found no water so the dishes weren't done. In the evening I had a look in "Let's Go." Rouen is not the boring place we thought it was. It is the place Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc) was killed. A monument and statue are there. We woke early, looked at the statue of Joan of Arc, then changed our pounds into francs. We filled up the van with petrol ($1.25L.) On the way to Paris we had to pay two tolls of 17 1/2 F and 10 F ($4.50, $2.50.) We weren't impressed. 2/9 Paris We arrived in Houilles (suburb of Paris) at about noon. We went straight into the city (14 f return) to get our mail via poste restante. To find the main post office was difficult. It took 4 hours, a 21 f map, and several directions. On the way we caught glimpses of the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, several rues (roads.) there was only one letter from Mum. We bought a postcard of Mona Lisa for Shane. Although we were dying of thirst we didn't buy a drink as they were about $2 for a can. Everything in Paris is expensive. Even Chris was impressed with the price of the clothes. On our way from the train station to our van we went shopping for food. We bought a chook $5, flavoured milk $1.20 L, margarine $1.50 500 grams. For tea we had half a chook, roast spuds. In the evening we went looking for toilets. After going 1 mile in each direction we gae up. We are still using the few litres of water we brought from England. In the evening we decided why French rolls are so called. 80% of the people walking around had at least one under their arm. 3/9, Paris - Tours In the morning we phoned the Aussie embassy but a woman with a French accent told me we needed a work permit and so couldn't tell me where to find work. We then decided we'd drive to Bordeaux in search of grapes. We need some more money so I cashed 2x 20 pounds into 196 F minus 20 f ($5) commission. After 2 hours we finally found the highway to Tours. Somehow we found ourselves on a tolled road so got of that immediately (30 km for 14 f, $3.50.) By 7 PM (9 hours after leaving) we had gone 250 km from Paris, 320 km by our speedo. We camped in a car park in Ste Maure 35 km south of Tours and to our delight there is a toilet in the car park without an old lady asking for 25 cents (1 f). We spent 240 f ($60) on petrol. We found water at a petrol station and filled up our tank. 4/9 We drove for 74 miles before stopping for lunch at a picnic ground off a main road. We bought another 125 f petrol and took the left front brake apart. It has been locking, causing some concern. We seem to have fixed it temporarily. We stayed parked and camped the night. Chris started a letter. 5/9 Bordeaux We arrived in Bordeaux after a 5 hour drive. We passed through St Vincent de Paul, a small village, on the way. I also stopped to cash another 20 pounds at another town, Barberella. Once in Bordeaux we bought petrol, food, then camped in a small town a few km from the city. That evening we observed the locals at a ceremony, possibly a baptism. While shopping for food we even had to decipher the labels to work out the products as most had no pictures. "Petit pois extra fins a letturiff" is green peas. The brakes were ok for a while but are playing up again. 6/9 Near Cap Ferret 60 km west of Bordeaux We eventually got out of Bordeaux and went to see the Atlantic Ocean. As no one is picking grapes yet we've decided to holiday at the beach. We parked in a car park 50 m from the camp ground ($5/night.) After the weekend we were left here and are now the only scabs in the car park. The beach has normal bathing, topless and nude bathing. All sections tend to mingle. There are many beautiful women around but most have boyfriends (same age or double, fathers?) 9/9 to 14/9 Cap Ferret We sent letters (post cards) to London insurance, Mum and Shane. We have to wait around until at least 24/9 to pick letters up from Bordeaux. We've been staying in the same place, visiting the town occasionally. The shops are open 9 to 12 and 2 to 6. All stop for lunch. Prices are astronomical for food. Chooks $10 kilo, margarine $2.50 (250 g.) We've mostly been reading, I've read 3 bestsellers in the last 5 days (300 pages a day.) Chris finally finished his letter to Mum is still to post it. Some French students have been camping near us, borrowing our can opener every meal, but they left 14/9. We'll probably go to Bordeaux tomorrow.

Mum, Dad, Mal and Jem, We went through Paris but there was only one letter there, possibly because there are about 12 post offices. We went to the main ones. We are now on the Atlantic coast 50 km west of Bordeaux so can you post any letters to "Poste Restante Bordeaux 1." The grapes aren't ready yet so we are near the beach lazing around. Hello it's Chris here (your other son.) We did stay at Steve's for about 2 weeks. We received the letters you mentioned. It hasn't been raining here in the south of France. We sent six rolls of film from London of Egypt you should receive them soon. There aren't any amazing French fashions on the beach as most go au naturalle or at the very most topless. If possible could you esnd travel insraunce to us, now is as good as ever (not essential.) In France petrol is $1.20/litre and margarine is $2 for 500 g. Surprise surprise French sticks are only to 70 c a loaf. I'm in the process of writing an extensive letter explaining all. Bye for now. Your loving sons Chris and Peter

15/9

Cap Ferret to Merignac

We drove to Cap Ferret to fill up with water. We also bought 50 f petrol, enough to get to Bordeaux. We stopped at Merignac, suburb where airport is found, and started shopping in supermarket. As we found we only had $10 or 50 f we decided to go into city centre to get money from bank. After a couple of milkes we found banks. We went to the biggest (usually less commission for traveler's cheques) only to find it was 12:35, it was closed for lunch from 12:30 to 1:30. The others were also shut. After waiting around for 1 1/2 hours we found out banks are closed Mondays. We went back to the supermarche and bought 50 f of food. We camped near a sports ground. It even had taps. We put the kettle on, only to find the gas had run out. We had a French stick for tea.

16/9

Merignac

We went to the banks and I exchanged 2 20 pounds into 80 f. We then went to buy some petrol, a station near the supermarket, $1.20 L instead of $1.24 L. On the way we rant out of petrol, luckily it was outside a petrol station $1.25 L but still we had to have it. We pushed the van to the station only to find it was closed. Chris took the petrol can and went to the nearest station. We then drove to the petrol station at the supermarche. Filled up the tank. It cost 150 f. I mistakenly gave her 250 f, she gave me no change. We then went shopping, buying 191 f of food. I gave the checkout girl a 200 f note which turned out to be 100 f. Chris went looking for money while I stood there explaining I couldn't speak French. Chris came back without any money. We gave them 30 f and some of our groceries and left quickly.

Because I had mistakenly given 250 f instead of 150 f we went back to the service statioon, write a note in French from our phrase book, and gave it to a different girl (the other had gone off duty.) She said there was no way of checking, sorry. Either that or stiff bikkies, we weren't sure. We then went to numerous hardware shops, petrol stations, camping grounds, etc. but none had "Calorgas" cylinders, again we left without gas. (We went back to the bank, changed 20 pounds and bought the groceries we'd left behind.) The van kept stalling. Hope it comes good.

17/9 - 18/9

30 k east of Bordeaux

We drove to Bordeaux City. Chris withdrew 1400 f ($350) from Westpac Mastercard. We bought brake fluid for van. We drove toward Bergerac, still looking for gas. We stopped and camped in some trees waiting for it to get dark. We lit a fire and cooked a stew, pancakes and a chook. The next morning we continued towards Bergerac. At lunch the van stopped at Ste Foy la Grand, a town 20 km from Bererac. The clutch had gone. Literally broken. Chris was sure it was only a loose split pin so we bought a new one and put it in. We then posted 2 letters (Mum and Deb.) After lunch we found the clutch was still grinding. We waited till dark when few cars were on the roads and pushed the van a few blocks, across the highway to a service station. We took some rocks out of a nearby garden, put them behind the wheels and then went to sleep.

In the morning with the aid of the multilingual phrase book we told them what was wrong. They understood us but we couldn't understand them. Through an interpreter they told us the clutch would have to be shipped from England, or they could put a similar clutch in. we chose the former. They then said it would take 1 week and cost 1500 f ($375.) The mechanic's wife then found us somewhere to stay, a campground or a farmer's. We weren't sure the farmer's wife wanted us there or whether she was concerned with the 4 KM walk from town for us, so we took the campground 18 f ($4.50) a night for us and tent. 1 km from town. We'll stay here until Sat 27/9 probably reading novels.

I'm not sure where this happened, only that it happened in a small French village, during this trip, with this horrible van. One morning, Chris was push-starting the van while Peter steered. This was on a narrow French road in a village, with cars lined up either side. Because Chris knew he'd have to move quickly to get into the van once it started, he'd left the passenger door slightly ajar. It took some effort but eventually the van started. But because it was such a narrow road, as Peter steered it, the door kept hitting the parked cars. Without missing a beat Chris ran, hopped into the car, slammed the door shut, and shouted out behind him, "Au revoir!"

28/9

Sainte Foy la Grande

After an uneventful week we packed our tent and backpacks up on 27/9 (we phoned Deb on 23/9) and waited to be picked up by mechanic's wife. When at 7 PM she hadn't arrived, Chris walked to garage to see if the van was ready. He came back to tell me that they hadn't found a Chrysler clutch ("not even in Paris"), either we find one or they put a similar clutch in. We put tent up. On 28/9 we went to garage to tell them to put foreign clutch in. Translator didn't arrive but phoned instead. Message back: It will be very hard to find similar clutch. Just after lunch gypsies (2 families) arrived at camp ground playing loud music and parking in the way of others. A few hours later manager asked them to turn music down and move cars. They started to push him around and be finally called police. 5 mins later police arrived, checked out IDs and things settled down. 2 hours later gypsies left. Quiet again! Glenn (Pom across from us) lent us his petrol hotplate. We cooked lasagna, our first hot meal for 12 days.

29/9

Ste Foy la Grande

At around 11 AM Glenn came back to campground. He'd found work picking apples, he wondered if we wanted to go with him at 2 PM. The wages . . . 50 f a day . . . Chris seemed excited, Peter was disappointed with the wage. After sitting around talking until 1:30 we were driven to a shed where we grabbed a ladder each and a bag. We were then taken to an orchard where only 4/8 were needed (Chris included.) The other 4 walked back to the van and pretended to pick some grass for the animals. As soon as the owner turned his back we (Pom, Spaniard, German and me) filled our bags with apples, jumped in the back of the van and were driven off. When we got back to Ste Foy we moved wood from one pile to another for 3 hours. We then made up some beds. In the meantime Chris was learning how to pick apples properly (no marks.) They didn't want him the next day as he was Aussie. We arranged to go again 1/10 but for 50 f didn't

We phoned Mum on 30/9.

I sent a letter to Maggie, Chris to Bernie.

1/10

Ste Foy la Grande

Glenn left for grape picking. I decided to think about South America to North America, back to LA, taking 1 year. After reading book on Mexico started writing travel book.

2/10 - 11/10

Still SFLG

We sat around finishing unread novels. We've decided now to go on the next trip Sept 88, going S America to Canada, Amsterdam to Helsinki, Helsinki to Japan on Trans Siberian Railway, Japan to Aus via China, Malaysia, Bali, Darwin cross-country to Kerang for Christmas '89 (cost $9000.) After waiting for clutch through garage for weeks we decided to get it ourselves. Steve couldn't find one. (He broke up with Angela.) I phoned garage near Steve's, they gave me no. of distributer. I arranged for Steve's mate to get clutch from them for 32 pounds. They didn't have it on 10/10 so he'll go back 13/10. New cost 70 pounds plus 20 pounds for collection.

12/10

You guessed it

We'd just had lunch when a woman came up to our tent and started speaking to us in French. I staid "non francais," she then started speaking in German. I told her we were Australians and she laughed then spoke in English. Luigi had told her we were Austrian. She wanted to know about Austria as she no longer wants to live in France. She is sure that the Jews have ruined France and that a civil war will break out in France within 2 years. Five hours after she left knowing no more about Austria but promising to help us to get a gas bottle on 13/10 or 14/10.

13/10

Ste Foy

Mrs Williams arrived at 2:30 and drove us to E. Leclerc in S.F. and she told us which food to buy. We bought about 50 f of food we didn't need, 20 f we needed. Once in the carpark we walked over to petrol/gas station. Through Mrs Williams we bought gas bottle 13.5 kg for 259 f. After some charades girl told me not to lose receipt for bottle. Bottle can be filled anywhere and exchanged at any E Leclerc in France. We went to cafe with Mrs W and talked about Oz and France. At 7:30 we arrived back at camp ground. We now have gas with no cooker!

This woman took quite a liking to Chris. She was married, and Chris was underage, and neither her husband nor Peter and Chris were very keen on things developing any further! Peter and Chris ended up moving on in a hurry to avoid any trouble. Ruth had told both boys before they left, "Don't get into any fights. If anyone wants to fight, just leave." They followed her advice, not only here but also with a fellow backpacker they met picking apples. He'd seemed quite nice at first, and then one day he attacked Peter for no apparent reason. They packed up and moved on, leaving behind the pay they were owed for the few days of work they'd done.

14/10 to 6/11

I phoned Steve about clutch. It still hadn't arrived. He had lost our address. He'll post it immediately? (17/10)

On 15/10 I went to Bordeaux to get money and mail. I withdrew $500 from Westpac. 4 letters were at Grand Poste. Westpac has increased credit limit to $1000.

On 16/10 we phoned Mum.

Chris is designing mudbrick house, I'm trying to write book.

28/10 phoned Jem

31/10 phoned Dad

3/11 1/3 of clutch arrived. (Wrong clutch.) We decided to hitch to London for remainder.

4/11 Mrs Williams on phone, garage can get parts in about 1 week, we moved back to camp ground, gas in van, first hot meals.

6/11 Sent letters to Jem and Deb

13/11

Ste Foy

On 13/11 we hitched to Bergerac. Chris got 2600 f ($650) from bank. Tahitian woman drove us there even though she was 1 hour late for work, dropping us outside bank (about 45 minutes waiting.) French man (Ste Foy) drove us to Ste Foy (after 30 mins smiling.) He spoke no English.

On 15/11 the van was ready to pick up. We paid 1850 f ($460) and drove to the park after leaving camp ground.

16/11 we drove toward Cannes. After 3 hours travel bus stopped on a very busy narrow stretch of road. (We'd earlier ran out of petrol at service station. Van wouldn't start so we pushed it away from service station around a corner into an alley. Van got out of control, hit the back of a car parked on corner, removing part of it, then started.) After hours of flashing lights and honking horns a tow truck stopped. For 100 f offered to take us to Cahor. Van was too heavy for trailer so he left to return 10 mins later. 15 mins later non-English speaking police arrived with flashing lights (2 cars.) After seeing car wouldn't start they decided against arresting us and called another tow truck. While waiting for it to arrive they checked out exterior of van thoroughly, interior from back door with torches.

16/11 to 17/11

Cahors

We were towed to garage and with tapping of starter motor with hammer van started. We were told we could leave using hammer for 400 f or he woudl fix it for 400 f. We got ti fixed.

17/11 After sleeping in van at garage van was to be fixed by noon. At noon it would take until 2 PM. Now 1500 f. At 7 PM new starter motor needed, 1770 f, 4 days! We decided to leave van at Venice travel to Greece via Yugoslavia, Hungary, Yugo, Bulgaria, Turkey. Perhaps getting Deb to meet us in Athens.

21/11 - 24 11

Cahors, Toulouse

25/11 La Chatre

Mechanic couldn't get starter, told us garage in Toulouse could (400 f) Without a push start we drove 100 km to Toulouse. Peugeot dealer couldn't get one, sent us to small shop. We were told to return after weekend 24/11 for part.

24/11 Part was wrong. We decided to drive back to London, leave van at Steve's, continue by bus. After driving one day alternator and regulator stuffed up. We found auto electrician who put new ones in, fixed starter all in one day (950 f.)

27, 28, 29/11

to London

Next day we found starter stuffed again. Continued to Boulogne. Tried to cash in gas bottle. E Leclerc wouldn't accept it. Took ferry to Dover 28/11 (420 f.) With push start got off ferry, drove to London. Tried to cash in insurance, but can't until tax disc for van arrives. (Got disc, insurance 252 pounds.)

29/11 Took clutch back to Streeters, only 1/3 payment as 1/3 of clutch; Steve must have remainder in house.

Spent 28/11, 29/11 in library reading English!

1/12 - 16/12

London

16/12 - 18/12

Belgrade

Stayed at Steve's 1/12 to 16/12. Returned 1/3 of clutch. (Steve had sent all of it.) Bought starter (18 pounds.) Claimed at post office for remainder of clutch day we left. Hopefully cash sent to David Bennett's (Steve's friend.) Got French visas ($15 ea) while getting Steve's. 90 min. queue morning 10/12 and afternoon 11/12 to pick them up.

Caught Miracle bus to Belgrade at 7:30 Pm on 16/12 at 35 pounds ($80) ea. It passed through Brussels, near Munich, Austria (snowing), Belgrade. 2 Aussie girls got off near Munich then we got off at Belgrade (40 hours 18/12). Rest of bus continued to Athens. We nearly convinced a Canadian to get off at Belgrade but upon seeing it, declined.

18/12 to 19/12

Belgrade

We walked to station, eventually got map then phoned youth hostel which had vacancies. We caught tram to stop near hostel (tickets had to be bought before boarding so we didn't pay.) Walked to hostel, price $10 ea. Went to room decided to leave for Hungary next day. Into room came 2 Poms traveling around Europe on Interrail. Next 2 Aussie visitors (they asked if any other Aussies were in hostel, they wanted to speak English. 6 of us talked a couple of hours. Poms had been charged $12 ea, Aussies $9 ea.)

19/12

Had obligatory breakfast then caught first uncrowded tram to Hungarian Embassy. Filled out forms but they wanted money in US $ ($18 Oz), DM ($30 ea), not pound stirling. They agreed on dinar. I went to bank where I changed money with a man with a briefcase (bank clerk wouldn't change?) Went back to Embassy, cost was Yugo dinar ($16 Oz.) Got visas on spot then bought tickets to Budapest ($25 ea) Let's Go had a price of $8 ea? We then went to station to wait for train about 9 hours/9:25 PM. Negro American, seeing Let's Go, came up to us. He also had Let's Go. Chris and Dave left for food and money (Dave.) Yugoslavian originally from Oz talked to me for a while about all the women walking past. He was 17 but he still knew which were pros.

Chris and Dave returned without money. American Express office was closed. Dave had little money so wanted ticket charged to American Express. We moved to 2nd class waiting room. Dave left to buy ticket. (He was going to stay in Belgrade 1 night but decided to catch midnight train to Thessalonia as he'd already told y. hostel clerk he'd never pay such prices.) In waiting room a Hunchback with a pet terranin was entertaining everyone First he pinched seat of man who stood up so to look in bag. He was up only seconds before losing seat. Aussie and crew and been turned back from Bulgaria without visa.

19/12 - 20/12

Belgrade - Budapest

After waiting in snow until morning outside booth passports had been taken in.

We left Dave and caught train to Budapest. Hungarian/Yugoslavian woman talked to us most of the trip and gave us some food before she got off. At border man sitting next to me me without shoes was thrown off for having too much foreign currency. Woman explained it was for being without shoes more than money, Customs men took a dislike to him so decided to throw him off for any reason possible.

We arrived in Budapest at 5:45. Tourist office opened at 8. We waited on floor until then. I buzzed, he only spoke Hungarian and German. In German I explained I wanted something cheap but they had nothing. Information wouldn't give us a map so I bought one in Metro. We walked to Express (youth orientated) and got a room in private house in city for 5 ea a night. In evening we ate in bistro. Meat and veg for $1.25.

21/12

Budapest

Went to see Royal Palace Museum and Cathedral. It snowed after lunch so we used umbrella I'd obtained in Belgrade (man in hurry, I helped him with luggage, umbrella fell under moving train, he left it, we got it.)

22/12 - 26/12

Visegard Budapest to Belgrade

22/12 Took bus to Visegard, 60 km NW of Budapest. Stayed in top story of house.

23/12 Walked up mountain to fortress.

24/12 Went to Esztergom. Came back, struggle to find food for Christmas (shop shut 1/2 hour early, at least.) Landlord had left a tray of food and Christmas tree for us, found shop, turkey and spaghetti for Christmas. Met Kiwi who'd been traveling for 15 months. S. America, N.A., Europe. He's going to India, Africa - NZ.

26/12 Went to Budapest bus then train. Tried to get Bulgarian visa, no US $, had to wait 2 days. Went to Express, closed but sign indicating our room was to be taken by others. Went to station. Bought tickets Thessaloniki via Belgrade.

28/12/86

Dear Mum, Dad, Jem and Mal,

Just writing with an update of what we have been doing since England. The bus to Belgrade took 45 hours. it took us 1 day to realize the prices have doubled since the guide book was written last year (with inflation) so we took the first possible train to Budapest where we were pleased to find everything still extremely cheap. There we spent 2 days in a private home. We then went up the Danube to a small town called Visegrad. Here we also stayed in a home. We stayed over Christmas. Our first white Christmas. It was very nice. The owner brought us a Christmas tree and a plate of pastries and some fruit which was very nice too. We tried to call you but couldn't get through to wish you all a Merry Christmas. We couldn't get Bulgaria visas so we are now on our way to Turkey through the top of Greece. Mum I collected a group of Aeorgraoms from you in Budapest. Unfortunately they are the only ones. You won't receive back from us as we want to get to Sofia. The telephone is the only connection we have now before Deb joins us. Bye for now. Love Chris and Peter.

27/12 - 1/1/87

Belgrade - Thessaloniki - Istanbul

Stopped at Belgrade for 2 hours, Chris obtained mail for Amex. 3 letters from Mum. Took train to Thessaloniki with 3 Greeks and an Austrian. It arrived at 11 PM. Slept in station as train to Istanbul left at 9:30 AM. Had no money, banks opened 9:30, missed train, stayed in Thessaloniki 1 n ight (hotel $10.) Sent 2 letters (Mum and Deb). Caught train at 11 AM. Met John Henderson. Train arrived 7 AM in Istanbul, no snow! Went to Yucel Hostel 2250-1500 ($4.50 to $3) night.

31/12

New Years Eve took ferry to Asian side of Istanbul. Walked streets (Sheraton), very little going on in way of celebrations.

1/1 Phoned Mum

2/1/87 - 13/1/87

Istanbul - Bul - Bursa - Antalya - Pammukale - Selcuk

Stayed in Istanbul until 5/1 then took ferry to Vulova, bus to Bursa. Left Bursa 7/1 for Antalya (10 hr) on the southern coast. Took bus to Denizli, Dolmus to Pammukale 8/1. (Cotton Castle); cliffs of white limestone. Accom. now 1000 TL a night. Phoned Mum, Deb coming in 1/2. Found out camel wrestling 5 days earlier then Let's Go. Took bus to Selcuk 10/1. Saw second day of wresting. Hardly hilarious! Dolmus in accident on way back from Wrestling. 11/1 Saw Ephuses. John left for beaches. Met man from Australian Carpets. Went to Aphrodisias, return too late for Dolmus. Hitched, first vehicle, truck, took us all 250 km (only wanted 20 km.)

14/1 to 16/1

Kusadasi - Bodrum

23/1-28/1

Kos - Athens

Met Aussie traveler Harry (43) and daughter Mary (10), been traveling 4 1/2 years. Went to Pirene (boring). 16/1 In Seke catching bus to Bodrum. Met Turk/Aussie, turned out to be Oz Carpet's son and his Oz girlfriend. Offered us a job in the summer selling carpets 20% plus room and board? (finding pigeons) Arrived Bodrum. Met John at castle.

Had fight with John, we moved to camping. Left Bodrum 23/1 for Kos ($15 instead of $20) Stayed in Kos 4 days. On 25/1 tried to catch ferry but water too rough to dock. Rope broke killing 1 man, injured another. Arrived Athens 28/1 with an Aussie family (Bob, Barb, Leah?) Stayed Diana the Huntress 250 dzac a night.

1/2 - 5/1 - 6/2 - 8/2

Athens - Patras - Brindisi - Napoli

Deb arrived 1/2, 2 hours late. 3/2 Bought Interrail after a day of hassles. Most monuments shut due to strikes. Caught train to Patras to drive supplement. Interrail good for 30% off for one ferry, Eurail free for other. We caught Eurail one. Sniffer dogs went over our backpack twice. Ferry left 9:30 PM arrived 5 PM in Brindisi. Walked to station with two Americans Paul and Leigh and South African, came to Napoli with us instead of Rome.

We went to Capri in morning after all night train journey. No boats to cave in winter. Visited museum 7/2, Pompeii collection, overrrun by interest school kids wanting photos and answers to questions. In afternoon went to Pompeii, Leigh left for Rome. Went to Rome 8/2. Leigh met us at station, found hotel 10,000 L then walked around to see Colluseum, Greus Maximus ? etc.

9/2

Rome

Went to Vatican, Sistine Chapel. In afternoon Leigh and I went to Ostia (ruins) but it was closed, Deb and Chris saw Colluseum again. We saw Leigh off at station but the train was full so she stayed another day.

10/2 - 12/2

Florence, Pisa, Padoua, Venice

10/2 We left for Florence. Leigh saw us off this time. Stayed at hostel, saw museum containing Michaelangelo's David and prisoner's collection, and caught a train to Pisa all before 2 PM.

A Memory from Leigh:

Attached is the only photo I have from my time with Peter. It was taken after I viewed the Parthenon in Athens and before I viewed the Colosseum in Rome. I believe I encountered the trio while on a ferry, possibly to Santorini. They were all so friendly, and I'm sure I was impressed that a) they were from Australia and b) that siblings could travel so well together. At some point, I mentioned that I had been traveling alone for a couple of months, and it was getting to me. We were apart for a while, and the next time we spoke, Deb said that the three of them had discussed it, and they offered for me to travel with them for a bit; I gratefully accepted.

I believe we arrived in Santorini and explored the island together. We stumbled upon a party of some kind, and we were invited to eat and stay for the celebration. Later we crossed paths with some others who had been on the ferry. They had found the party after we had left, but they weren't invited to join. We all joked about that a bit, glad that we had been the first to arrive.

If I recall correctly, we took a train to Ostia, the ancient port of Rome. It was a small town that I wanted to see because of its historical importance. Unfortunately, the town literally was closed the day we arrived, so there was nothing to do.

I think our time together ended in Rome. I recall Peter being friendly but quiet. Strong but gentle. He seemed quite smart and had a good sense of humor. We all laughed a lot. I thought he mentioned something about working in television, but I could be wrong. I wish I remembered more, but it has been 35 years.

11/2

Saw gallery containing Rubens, Rembrandts, Da Vinci, etc. self portrait then caught a train to Padoua to stay the night.

12/2

Spent the day on the canals of Venice, in the rain. Saw glass blowers, bought some glass souvenirs. Gave canal passes away to reluctant, lucky people. Caught train to Salzburg

13/2 - 17/2

Salzburg - Stockholm

Arrived at Salzburg after changing trains at Verona and Innsbruck. At station an American guy gave us the address of a hostel so we went there. We looked around Salzburg, saw Amadeus Mozart house, the church from The Sound of Music. In the evening we went to Munich to a beer hall and watched the "locals."

14/2

Went to Vienna but it was too cold to look around so we watched TV in the underground.

14/2

Back to Munich before catching the night train to Copenhagen

This was something Peter and his siblings would do quite a bit to save on accommodation - they'd find a city or town about 6 to 8 hours away and hop on an overnight train, laying out on the benches to sleep. Since they had Eurorail passes, the train trips were free. While this would necessitate them taking it in turns to get up at every stop and stand in front of the door to give the illusion of a full cabin, it was a great way to save $3!

16/2

Saw the Little Mermaid and railway station before catching overnight train to Stockholm Station. Hen's night. Sleepy. Wow.

17/2 - 23/2

Stockholm - Barcelona

17/2 Arrived Stockholm (-10 C). Hostels cost $20. Eventually found one for $15. Met some Danish students in Columbus Hotel.

18/2 Overnight train to Oslo

19/2 Train to Bergen and back for scenery (-20 C) but too foggy. Bergen Railway Station; American exchange students, drunk birthday girl, bum with dog, Norwegian translator and police made for a fun night. Too cold decided to go to Spain.

20/2 Oslo to Copenhagen to Amsterdam Found Christian Hostel, saw museums 21/2, then caught train 22/2 to Switzerland but got on train to Belgium? Ended up getting to Barcelona via Paris. No visa was needed. Arrived in Barcelona 23/2

23/2 to 3/3

Barcelona - London

23/2 Found pension and paella (first restaurant meal for ages.) Saw doctor demonstration, Burger King's bottle opened

24/2 Took night train to Madrid

25/2 Lazed around pension

26/2 Looked for hotel under $20 ea, found 2 but they turned us away at last minute? Slept on train to Belgium and back.

27/2 Found hostel, saw Louvre

2/3 Saw Notre Dam, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe. Trouble with lockers

3/3 Arrived London after train/ferry/train. Waited for Steve a station for 2 hours, wrong station? Steve was still at same place, went there to van with beaten up, broke Kenyan business man. Gave him 10 pounds to get to airport

4/3 Saw Tower of London

5/3 Found out Deb had missed plane

6/3 Buckingham Palace, Big Ben

8/3 Westminster Abbey; Deb sick

9/3 Took Deb to airport in Steve's van, got stuck in carpark, so couldn't see Deb off

10/3 - 13/3 Washed, cleaned, fixed van

14/3 - ?? Tried to sell van at Waterloo

21/3 Winters End concert with Garry Glitter in Van's carpark. Went to pictures with Steve.

Postmarked 25 March 1987

Dear Mum, Dad, Jem, Mal and Deb,

No doubt Deb will have given you an update to our holiday so I'll start where she left.

We cleaned up our van for a few days, changed the oil, bled the brakes, then took it to a mechanic for a tune up. He said it was running well enough without one so we saved the $30 to $50. We then drove the van into the city and have been here since (about 10 days so far.) We're asking $3500 and have had some people interested, but no money has changed hands yet. A guy came this morning 23/3 saying he'd be back at 1 PM with the money but it's now 2 PM and he hasn't showed up yet. Last Saturday there was a Winter's End concert across the road with Garry Glitter etc. Since it was free we had a look. Chris will be home as soon as we sell the van? Will write soon. Peter

26/3 Three groups of people seriously considering to buy van

28/3 - 2/4

Waterloo

28/3 We got offer of 1300 pounds for couple wanting van for 1 month. We told them we'd phone 9 PM. At 6 PM we phoned wanker who'd wanted our van for weeks at 1000 pounds. He upped the price to 1350 pounds. We wanted all day Sunday.

29/3 Leigh "sold" on window. Pom came took van for drive, looked over everything said he was going to give us 1300 pounds but because door didn't shut properly 1000 pounds.

30/3 Saw Crocodile Dundee

2/4 Kiwi couple came took van for drive asked what the lowest price we'd accept was then offered us 1200 pounds instead of 1300 pounds. We refused. 5 minutes later they came back 1300 pounds.

3/4 - 9/4

London

3/4 Took van to John's (Kiwi.) Received money. I bought 1500 US T.C. We walked to youth hostel in search of plane tickets. Chris to Australia, me to N. America. Melb 300 pounds or nearest officer, Toronto 100 pounds or nearest offer. Took number. Then went back to get stuff from Moama - Ite. Slept in Steve's van.

4/4 - 8/4 Arranged for Chris ticket. Airlanka fell through (200 pounds) so had to get Qantas 250 pounds. I got ticket to Toronto 75 pounds. Paid deposits of 150 pounds and 25 pounds respectively.

9/4 Got Steve's van ready (replaced sun roofs, washed it) for Waterloo as Chris leaves 14/4, me 16/4

10/4

London

10/4 Took Steve's van to Waterloo at about 1 PM. Policewoman gave us a parking ticket and a lecture on driving without insurance. She also said market was closing down and police, customs and excise etc. would be there next week. I put down deposit of 50 pounds out of 270 pounds+3 for LA - Tahiti - Syd flight

11/4 Woken up by Moama-ite 8:30 AM, police on warpath; want all vans out. "Go to the Strand." We drove down the road a few blocks to see what would happen. Police gave us 5 mins before we'd be towed away to "pound."

11/4

Dartford

We drive back to Norwood, had breakfast, then spent day at library

We'd just had dinner when Steve came past wanting to know why we were back. Explained the situation. He wants us to go back 12/4 to have a look!

Steve and Sue went to Rocky Horror Picture Show (live), we went along for the ride. We had 3 hours to kill so we went in search of a cinema. Dartford, although having a McDonald's, Kentucky Fried and Wimpys, had no cinema. We wanted in van talking of film.

12/4

London

We drove into London with Steve, he was working (Sunday?) We then set off for Waterloo. The market was on but only half of the vans and 1/10th of the buyers

The day before the police had continued clearing the street until only a few remained, they didn't tow any away. The word must have got around so just about no one bothered coming in Sunday. All was quiet, just a few people looking around, until a couple came in looked at it then left. While I was away going to the toilet and talking to sellers, they returned wanting a test drive. After a 10 min wait I returned to take them for the drive.

Apart from stalling once at a set of lights and being caught in a traffic jam for 10 minutes, it went quite well. They took Steve's work number and told us not to sell it to anyone else. We decided not to wait around for D-Day (Monday was expected to be tow-away day by the dealers) and to pick Steve up at work instead. We had to wait until 9 PM rather than 6 PM for him as a snag came up with the computers. The girl hadn't called.

13/4

London

We lazed around listening to Steve's Walkman then decided to go to the library.

In the evening Lara and Allan came around to Steve's so we had a party while Sue was away. It seemed they'd started before we arrived as Steve smashed a glass cabinet door, Allan juggled apples and kept turning the stereo up, Laura laughed. This went on until the wee hours of the night 10 PM then we left as Sue was due at any time.

14/4

London

Chris leaving today. We packed the stuff into the backpacks, choc-o-bloc, then left for London.

I bought plane ticket and insurance from PanPacific, then we left for airport.

Met D. May (she arrived 6:30 PM, 1/2 hour late.) Checking in the luggage was a problem what with 2 backpacks and a Porsche muffler. Had to pay small amount for extra weight, Steve'll get bill in mail. Waited around till Chris went through boarding gates (8:15) then left. Arrived back at van 10 PM.

15/4 - 16/4

London

Took van into Waterloo, police patrolling so I had to keep meters full of coins and move van. There were a few interested. They've got Steve's number. Left for Norwood about 7:30 PM. Arrived back 8:30. Told Steve, gave him keys and asked himi to wake me up when he left.

16/4

Woke up several times through the night but got up at 7:30 AM. Got dressed, had brekkie then caught train with Steve. Got to the youth hostel before 9:30 AM. Laurel arrived promptly as hostel closed for the day. We caught train to Heathrow, she got my boarding pass, I gave her 50 pounds then went through Customs, no problems. Waited for time to board, spent last of Pommy money on chewing gum, then boarded plane.

It was fairly full, due to Easter, but I managed a window seat.

After a 15 min. delay the plane started to taxi down the runway, my European vacation was coming to an end. The plane accelerated and started to leave the tarmac. the plane was airborne, the ground rapidly became further away, the ants looking like spots, people like ants. My American holiday had begun. The hassles of finding accommodation, cheap food, travel was only hours away . . . But first the free food, drinks and inflight entertainment.

That is the end of Peter’s travel journal. The rest of the trip is told from postcards and from memories of the stories he told me.

He wrote a series of 4 postcards to his family, which must have been mailed in an envelope as none have an address on them – they are completely covered on the back and numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4:

Postcard 1

Dear Mum, Dad, Jem, Mal, Deb, and Chris,

No, I didn’t go back to Toronto, I just forgot to send it off so I’m sending it with a few others. I think I was still in Montreal when I last wrote so I’ll continue from there.

I stayed in Montreal for 3 days then hitched to Quebec City, a small (50,000 pop.) city built on a hill with a fortress wall around the original pat of it. The hitching itself took 3 hours to travel 250 km. I got 1 lift about 30 km out of Montreal, then the rest of the way in 3 lifts with a van delivering films (same van dropped me off a ramp going into town then picked me up on the way out of town.)

The next morning a guy from near Toronto, who was staying in the hostel, drove me and a girl from Sydney (NSW) out of town in his car, to a very old church (oldest in Canada?), then to a waterfall. Although this waterfall was fairly unspectacular, it was taller than Niagara Falls (though not as wide) so upon the insistence by the Canadian that the view from above would be fantastic we worked out a strategy for climbing. The only way seemed to be to follow the path and steps to the base of the falls then go to the side and up the hill. The only problem was that the mist from the falls was so thick we couldn’t see to the other side. We approached the falls at walking pace then broke into a sprint as we neared the base. We stopped (Narrelle and I) while Paul ran seconds later to inform us that the path stopped after a further 18 metres. So we had to go back through the falls

Postcard 2

mist, by the time we were far enough from the falls to walk we were drenched. People, upon spotting us, stopped taking photos of the falls to take them of us. We went straight back to the hostel, sneaking in as quietly as possible, so as to avoid too much embarrassment.

The next couple of days were spent walking around the city, looking at the horses and buggies waiting for the tourist season. I met up with Richard (the guy that hitched Toronto – Montreal) and a Kiwi guy and we went in search of a monastery museum but it was shut, so we went to a pub to play pinnes instead. The next day (26/4) I hitched toward Boston (about 750 km.) By nightfall I’d been given about 15 rides (all French speaking) and had gone about 200 km. I was in Jackman about 10 km south of the Canadian/USA border. Customs gave me 6 months in USA without checking air ticket or traveller’s cheques or bags. In Jackman I first went to the camp grounds looking for somewhere to sleep. They wanted $34 (US) for a cabin. Then I went to a motel ($20.) Lastly I went to the hotel which for $10 had a double bed, towels, etc.

The next morning I started hitching early, 3 hours later I got my first ride, 15 miles. I was dropped in the middle of a forest, near a logging camp, moose and bears just out of hibernation, or so I was told.

Postcard 3 Although this was National Highway 1 only about 10 cars went past each hour so the going was pretty slow. Five rides, two McDonald’s hamburgers and 7 hours later I was picked up by a woman and a dog who drove me all the way to Boston (about 200 miles), then out to a seafood restaurant, before taking me to the hostel’s front door (after a 90 minute car ride searching for it.)

I stayed in Boston 6 days, with the last 3 being free as I did work in exchange for accom. I had planned to go to New York then but at the last minute decided to go to Cape Cod instead as the hostel there was giving accom. free in exchange for 2 hours work (getting it ready for opening in two weeks.) I hitched to Orleans, my last ride offering to give me a job “shuckin’ clams.” As he’d given me his number I phoned the next morning and was working an hour later. Shuckin’ clams turned out to be opening them up to get the meat out. The pay is $3 (US) per bag. The first day I did 2 bags per hour, the next day 3. Although both days were only short my hands ached. It was very cold, wet and windy (it snowed 18 inches overnight in Boston) so the ships which dredged the clams couldn’t go out for a few days. No work. Then the ship broke down so my boss is looking for clams elsewhere.

In the meantime my accom at the youth hostel finished as the manager had to go to Texas for 5 days, the hostel having to close for those 5 days! I went to a real estate agent who said housing was almost non-existent $800/week. The next estate said the same but decided to try harder. Upon finding out I’m Aussie (he’d just been there.) He had nothing but expensive cottages either. Soon

Postcard 4

everyone was racking their brains trying to think of a place. The guy making stained glass windows across the corridor suggested I try a typesetter down the road. She had nothing until early June, maybe. When she found out where I was from (Oz) she remembered a vacancy coming up 22nd May. I could have the room in a house with 3 others for 2 weeks then decide whether I would stay all summer (Aug 29th) or leave then. (Accom so scarce when university students arrive looking for work they take everything.) I then went back to the real estate’s. A woman there (Joan) said I could stay at her place until 23 May (room rented in advance) but not for 2 days. A guy (Steve) let me stay at his place for those 2 days. Steve also has given me a car but it’s a wreck and may take more to fix than it’s worth. The first night there I went to a barbecue at an English woman’s house, then to play pool at a guy originally from California (I won every game.) I moved into Joan’s on 9 May, the next day we went to brunch with the stained glass window maker and his family. I spent the day with them (yet another baby) while Joan went off to the radio station. She’s a part time disc jockey (the real estate business is only an attempt to get lots of money quickly so she can buy her own radio station.) Last weekend the temp hit around 75-85 F (25-30 C) so everyone went t othe beach and was doing a Nanny-in-the-summer-at-our-place (oooh, it’s soooo hot, I’m going to die!)

I’ll probably be staying here a while (1-4 months) so you can write to me at “General Delivery, Orleans Post Office, Massachusetts 02653 USA.”

I hope everyone’s well (and not underwater, broke, not burning food, not eating burnt food, in a house with a car, and employed paying off debts.) I’ll write again soon. Peter.

I know Peter stayed in Cape Cod for the summer. He must have kept in contact with Joan, because he had all sorts of stories from her – that Cyndi Lauper wasn’t respected as a musician because her parents were thought to have basically bought her a career; how he once spent an evening hanging out with James Taylor’s brother at Joan’s house.

He worked as a landscape gardener. I foolishly thought, when we moved to our Dereel house, that that meant he had a wonderful green thumb and would soon turn our yard into an oasis. But instead, he explained that working as a landscape gardener in Cape Cod mostly meant raking dried pine needles over the yards to kill the grass so it wouldn’t have to be mowed.

His boss was not a good person. He used to steal pine needles from other people’s yards to use in his client’s yards. He bragged to Peter about how he’d knocked up his girlfriend, convinced her to get an abortion, promised to pay for half, and then told her that the price for the abortion was twice what he was quoted, so that she ended up paying for all of it. I don’t know that he was a horribly exploitative boss; but Peter didn’t think much of him as a person.

He enjoyed Cape Cod though. He had some fun experiences there. He met the Charles Burrow’s nephew – Charles Burrow was the creator of Cheers, which was one of the biggest shows on TV at the time. He made plans to go to New York with Charles Burrow’s nephew and meet Charles Burrow, staying at his apartment in New York. But first he was going to go on a short, 2 week holiday to South America. He left a box of things behind (I think with Joan), and didn’t even bother collecting his last pay check, and flew off to South America.

I think he found the ticket much like he’d found the ticket to Toronto – he’d bought it from someone who had decided not to use it. That was often how he travelled in those days, because it was a cheap way to pick up an international ticket.

As it turns out, his two-week holiday to South America lasted much, much longer, and he never ended up going back to Cape Cod. He never collected his last pay check and he never collected the box of things he’d left behind. Sometime in the 90s he Googled his old boss and discovered he’d died of cancer. He’d long given up on ever collecting that last pay check, but that really meant it was no longer an option. As for the box of things he left behind – well, by the time I met him he assumed they were long gone, too.

I’m really not sure of the order of his travels in South America. I’ve tried to piece them together from the clues in the postcards, from what I know about the trip, and from the map; but I’m really not sure how accurate it is. I believe he flew into Colombia. He didn’t spend much time there though because at the time it was involved in a fairly intense drug war. I know he took buses all through South America because he would tell me how animals would ride on the bus too – mostly chickens but sometimes goats. He said it was a pretty uncomfortable way to travel. He flew when he could; but he was on a pretty tight budget, so sometimes buses were just the only way to go.

I’ve shuffled these postcards around every which way I can, but no matter how I arrange them I can’t really make sense of the order. But most either don’t have postmarks, or the postmarks are too faded to read. So, I’ve done my best here, based on the contextual clues in the postcards themselves:

Dear everyone,

From Caracas I took a 9 hr bus to see Cuidad Bolivar, then a bus to Cuidad Guinea, the place planes leave for Canaima (according to my guide book) but I found out I had to go back to C. Bolivar if I wanted to go to see the falls. I had to wait 2 days as the plane/hotel was booked up but finally I found a “Carry On” village - no Syd James but plenty of bungling people. It was then I found out Angel Falls (discovered by James Angel – ask Nanny if he’s any relation?) was 50 km or 6 days on a tour away. So I went to see some minor falls and walked behind one instead.

This morning I flew down to Santa Elena ($23, 2 hrs, the bus was $15 and took 14 hours) which is near the Brazilian border in the Amazon basin. The day after tomorrow 9th Sept I should arrive in Manaus; on the Amazon River. I’m trying to learn Spanish (I may continue south to Argentina then cross the Andes and head north) but so far my phrase book has been unable to teach me any more than what I picked up from TV or Clint Eastwood and Speedy Gonzalez. – Peter

Peter took a ferry down the Amazon. He had to pay a truck driver for the privilege of sitting on top of his truck as the truck went on the ferry down the Amazon to Manaus. I believe he said it took 3 days. He enjoyed the trip and spoke fondly of the meandering pace and the beautiful scenery. I think he saw river dolphins on the way, and perhaps even a crocodile. I vaguely remember a story about piranhas too. He always said it was a beautiful part of the world, although as I recall he thought the Amazon itself was a bit murky and dirty looking.

This is a good view of the falls (better than can be seen from ground level.) There is always a rainbow, and the vegetation is thick with birds and butterflies and postcard sellers. The place even has an elevator to take you back up to the top from where you can get a feed or drink or catch the bus back into Foz. They really are spectacular though and well worth the effort to go to see them!

Somewhere along the way – I think it was in Manaus, but it might have been in Rio – Peter contracted sleeping sickness (almost certainly, this was Chagas disease.) He slept for several weeks straight. He always told me it was two months straight; but that doesn’t fit with the timeline as I’ve been able to reconstruct it. He lost track of time, but every so often (perhaps every day, perhaps every couple of days) he’d wake up in his hostel, the sheets wet with sweat, and go downstairs to buy a big bottle of water. He’d drink it and then go back to sleep. He was very sick.

Eventually he recovered. I’ve heard two stories about this part of the trip. I am pretty sure Peter told me he’d overstayed his visa, and was kicked out of Brazil. But Ruth says that he’d lost so much weight he no longer looked like his picture in the passport. He couldn’t cash his traveller’s cheques. Brazilian authorities didn’t think it was him. So he moved on.

I do remember Peter always saying I’d like Rio. I always thought I had a very big butt. Peter never teased me about it and he never said I had a big butt but he said that in Rio, big butts are beautiful, so I’d like it there. He thought I’d feel sexy next to all the Brazilian women.

Dear Nanny and Steve,

How are you both? I thought I’d send you a post card to let you know I’m not in a Brazilian prison. I flew down to South America for a 2 week vacation from landscaping, near Boston (I did that for 3 months) and somehow missed my flight back to the States. I’m mostly traveling between the places that most interest me (Rio, Iguaco Falls, Amazonia, I’m now nearing the Inca temples at La Paz, Bolivia.) In the last month I’ve travelled about 12,000 km (400 km per day.) The problem is that I want to see all the sights and be home for Christmas, and South America is pretty big! Anyway, I’ll see you maybe late December/early January. Peter

I've always loved waterfalls, and often encouraged us to go out of the way to see them. He was never impressed by them. I guess he was always comparing them to Iguacu Falls.

The next several cards were sent from Peru:

G’day Deb,

This postcard shows some men on Lake Titicaca, near Puno. It’s in the Andes about 2 miles high (above sea level.) The boats are made out of reeds tied together. These people live on islands of floating reeds. As the lower levels rot more reeds are put on top. They have lived this way for 1000s of years, living off fish and birds. Now they make their money through tourists!

Dear Jem,

I hope pregnancy is aging you as much as it seems to age the women in Peru. This woman is probably 35 years old! (The baby is around 6 months.) Although the card says “typical peasant” she’s probably better off than most, the hat she has on is pretty new looking and the baby’s clothes are the best I’ve seen for a while. I just thought I’d show you how peasants in Peru live! Peter

Dear Mal,

How are ya? I saw this postcard and as a part of a matching set, thought I’d send it to you (even though the guy looks more like Peter Lindsay than you – his facial expression, not the fact that he’s working!) The guy is pretty typical of the peasant population here. Anyway I’ll see you in a few months. Peter

Dad,

I saw this post card and immediately thought of you and your image of Ireland (you know the oxen pulling ploughs etc.) This is how it is in Peru. Those with little money must push the plough themselves. The middle class own oxen and get them to pull the load. Those with mucho intis have a tractor (I’ve only seen one!) Peter

When we were in Tasmania, we drove through Queenstown. As we approached the town, which is settled in a basin, he told me it reminded him of a train trip he'd taken in South America - I can't remember where; perhaps Bolivia? - that had to go around and around in circles to get out of the city, which was set in a basin. He said the train moved very slowly as it circled the city moving up out of the basin, and at times he wondered if it could actually make it out.

I believe it was also on a South American train that someone tried to rob him. They went into a tunnel and suddenly Peter felt someone tugging at his bag. Just as well he was holding on to it, too. He tugged back and pulled it back towards him. He is sure that if he hadn’t been holding on to it, the would-be thief would’ve taken it and left the carriage, and he wouldn’t have known about it until they came out the other side of the tunnel.

In South America he bought a small stone statue. It has classic MezoAmerican features – square face, square eyes, etc. While passing through customs in one country – I believe it may have been Colombia – the customs official hit it hard against a table to break it to see if he was trying to smuggle cocaine. It was probably one of his nicest souvenirs, and he was not impressed that it was deliberately broken by a customs official!

He was impressed with Lake Titicaca and the floating islands of reeds. I remember him showing me a picture of them when he was at the University of Oregon and talking about them – how they just put new reeds on top of the old, so that the reeds are incredibly thick and able to handle the weight of the people who live there; how they catch birds and fish to eat. He thought it was beautiful up there.

Hi Chris,

I just thought I’d send you a postcard of Peru, even though I haven’t been to the place the photo was taken, it is a beautiful scene and I have seen some similar! I’m now in Cuzco, Peru, the place the Incas built a city in the jungle, Macchu Picchu. I’ll probably go to see it tomorrow as I only just arrived in Cuzco and I have a sort of flu which is going around gringos. Peter.

Peter told me that in South America, it was customary for the backpackers, when everyone sat down at a table to eat, for everyone to also put their roll of toilet paper on top of the table. Everyone had digestive issues. It was just the way it was; there was no shame to it; everyone just had tummy problems.

Peter spent a bit more time in Peru than he wanted to! He went to Cuzco to visit Machu Picchu. He arrived in Cuzco and didn’t have to walk much of the Inca Trail, but had to do a bit of a hike to get up there. He liked Machu Picchu – he said it was really interesting. Back then you were pretty much able to wander around and explore at your own leisure. But he had trouble leaving Cuzco. It took a while for him to get on a plane. Then, when he finally did manage to get a seat, they told him the flight would leave in a couple of hours, so he went into town for a final look-around. When he got back the flight was gone – and with it, his bag, including most of his traveller’s cheques and (I believe) his passport. As I recall he had about $10 in his pocket. Each day after that he’d go to the airport to catch the next flight; but for six days in a row, he couldn’t get on the flight out. Finally he got out. He had no idea where his bag was. Thankfully someone had grabbed it off the flight for him, and each day for a week, he’d taken the bag down to the airport, hoping to meet Peter. The day Peter got back was the last day this guy could meet him with his bag – he was due to leave later on that day. The guy who collected his bag had protected it and not taken anything from it. Everything was exactly as Peter had left it.

I’m not sure where Peter slept for those six days. Probably in the airport? I just know that somehow he made that $10 last a very, very long time . . .

Postcard

(Front: Machu Picchu)

Hi Mum!

I’m still in Cuzco. I’ve been trying to leave for the last 3 days but each time something has gone wrong. I bought an airline ticket and was told to go to the airport. I did, 5 hours later I found out that the flights were full (I was No 6 on standby on arrival and No 6 when I left.) Yesterday was the same story. Today I got a seat, was waiting for the plane in the airport lounge then at 11:30 AM (the filght was due to leave 8:30 AM) we were told the flight had been cancelled until tomorrow (14/10.) Hopefully I’ll get on tomorrow!

Again I’m not quite sure of the order of everything. I know that by November 1987 he was in LA.

He didn’t really talk much about LA. The only story I can remember is that he and a guy he’d met at the hostel were backpacking – I think they wanted to get to Mexico – and a 16 year old girl pulled over, with her friend in the car. The 16 year old said to wait there and she’d be right back; she was going to take her friend home so she could get her car, because they thought it’d be safer if they both took one of them, instead of all riding together. He didn’t quite get that logic and I didn’t either, when he told me the story. But of course nothing happened to the girls; Peter and his traveling companion were harmless.

I know Peter went to Mexico, and I’m pretty sure it was that trip, since to my knowledge that was his last time in the Americas until 1995. But I’m really not sure where he went, or how long he was there. I know at one time he was thinking about going overland through Mexico into South America but he didn’t, because there’s a pretty dangerous corridor along there. I think he went as far as Mexico City and had a look at the pyramids there. But we never really talked much about it.

Hi Everyone,

When I was in LA I stayed at the YMCA in Hollywood. It was one block off Hollywood Boulevard (where the stars are set in the footpath.) The Hollywood sign set in the hills could be seen from the hostel.

Hollywood is not the place it used to be. Now that most of the actors have moved away, it is more banks, McDonald’s, cinemas, than glamour. Still, it’s interesting. I’ll be seeing you! Peter

Well, Hollywood has actually never been glamourous – it’s always been the sort of seedy part of town!

The postmark on this postcard is very clear, so I know it was sent on 23 November 1987. He sent it to himself.

Hi,

I bought this card after going on the NBC Studio tour, which was quite good – I was selected to be on a mini quiz in which I won a car. The only problem was, it belonged to another member of the tour group! That night (18/11) I went to the Carson Show. Arrived 1 hr before it was due to start, and still just got in to see it 6 rows back. Anyway, it was free!

He caught his flight from LA to Tahiti to Sydney. He told me that Tahiti was beautiful, but very small and quite expensive. It only took him one afternoon to hitchhike around the island – I believe he said he did it in 2 rides. The funniest story from his time in Tahiti involves some European backpackers (I think they were Swedish.) One afternoon they fell asleep on the beach under a beach umbrella. As the sun moved they all got very badly sunburnt, but only the half that was not under the beach umbrella. The male backpacker, in particular, was so badly sunburnt on his legs and feet that he couldn’t walk. He had to stay in the hostel for days on end waiting for his feet to heal enough that he could walk on them.

From Tahiti Peter flew back to Sydney. His family didn’t know he was coming, and he had no way of getting from Sydney back to Kerang, so he hitchhiked. Ruth told me that one night it dark when he was dropped off in the middle of nowhere, and it was quite cold so he put on every piece of clothing he had, and climbed into his sleeping bag, and tried to sleep. When he woke up in the morning he discovered he’d slept under a barbed wire fence.

Ruth says that during this time they were very worried about him. She remembers him flying straight from Brazil back to Australia after his sleeping sickness. She says that they hadn’t heard from him in several months, and were trying to work out how to get to Brazil to find him. But again that doesn’t really make sense given the postcards I’ve found.

At any rate it took him several days to hitchhike back to Kerang. One Sunday, Ruth and Jem were going to church. They drove past the cemetery on the way into town, and Jem said, “Doesn’t that look like Chris?” Ruth looked, and they both did a double-take – it was Peter. So his final ride home, after his first trip overseas, was his own mother and sister.

She told me that Peter said that one night, he slept by the side of the road in rural NSW because he couldn't find a ride into town. He put on every item of clothing he had and crawled into his sleeping bag in the dark. When he woke up, he discovered he'd fallen asleep under a barbed wire fience, the barbed wire only inches from his face.

Peter got back to Kerang in late 1987 or early 1988. He’d been gone nearly 2 years and in that time he’d visited Egypt, lived in the US, and seen large parts of Europe and South America. He’d had a lot of adventures, not all of them good. But he’d loved it, all the same, and was desperate for more.

I hope that Peter's siblings, others who met him on this trip, or friends he shared stories with, will add their stories and memories to this post. Please comment below or use the Contact page to share!